new barrel - hard to eject rounds

Hi all, very much a beginner & amateur loader.

I have recently had my rem 300wsm re barrelled by Hardy’s.
Blueprinted ect.
it chambers my rounds fine, including factory ammo because I had to check that. but all rounds fired are very hard to open bolt and eject. bolt lift is normal, but to empty the chamber takes a few hits on the bolt to come free. this is including factory rounds..
any ideas what I have done or need to do?
have been hoping to start load development but this is a major flaw in my plan.
chronograph is a basic model but speeds are approx 2700fts firing a Sierra 175 TMK with H100V.
cheers,

Return to Hardy's should be your first option, give them a chance to sort.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tetawa

Return to Hardy's should be your first option, give them a chance to sort.

---

Definitely this

Very good cheers guys. I have just emailed them,
Thanks again

Sounds weird, definitely go back to the gunsmith. Lifting the bolt usually starts withdrawing the case from the chamber, so it should slide back easily after that, there may be something else binding and causing the problem.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by alphaDelta

chambers my rounds fine, including factory ammo because I had to check that. but all rounds fired are very hard to open bolt and eject. bolt lift is normal, but to empty the chamber takes a few hits on the bolt to come free. this is including factory rounds..
any ideas what I have done or need to do?

---

Had the exact same problem on a Remington Model 7 that some fuckwit 'gunsmith' put a PTG Rem 700 bolt into and never bothered to check headspace.

I'd put £20 on it being long-chambered, the brass is expanding too much and what you are seeing is the result of trying to rip a piece of brass out of the chamber which has not been able to spring back enough. Being able to lift the bolt up to the primary extraction cam is a good sign, as that is often done wrong in a re-barreled Remington to where the primary extraction surfaces on the receiver and bolt handle miss each other entirely.

Borrow a No-Go gauge (or if you can only find a Go gauge, put a single layer of masking tape on the case head) and I bet the bolt will still close. This is quite an unsafe condition as you are stretching the brass beyond it's elastic limit. If you want to verify this, go find or buy an L.E Wilson case gauge ( https://lewilson.com/case-gage ) and I bet your brass will protrude from the rear end of it. Another thing to confirm this hypothesis is find another person with a 300WSM who reloads, get them to run your case through their FL sizing die and try and chamber it. It probably won't chamber and will require a small base die to get it sized down around the case web (you are better off binning all the fired brass at this stage TBH)...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by alphaDelta

I have recently had my rem 300wsm re barrelled by Hardy’s.

---

Attachment 195380

Thanks for taking the time mate, awesome info cheers

Best to let the builder have a look at it and remedy it first.

If its a std rem factory action which has been rebarreled then it should be quite a simple fix you would hope.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mikee

Best to let the builder have a look at it and remedy it first.

If its a std rem factory action which has been rebarreled then it should be quite a simple fix you would hope.

---

Fingers crossed,
Cheers all for the help

so if you chamber a round and dont fire it..will it eject easily???

Almost sounds like a lack of primary extraction.

Was the brass brand new or has it been fired in another barrel?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by GWH

Almost sounds like a lack of primary extraction.

Was the brass brand new or has it been fired in another barrel?

---

Nope, the bolt lift being normal as per OP's first post would not indicate a PE problem.
@alphaDelta could you stick up a video showing extraction after firing if possible? Focus being on where the bolt handle hits the receiver cam on extraction.

Another thing to do would be measure the dimensions of your fired brass against unfired (the L.E Wilson Gauge is just a lazy way of doing the same thing).

Ive struck a very similar issue where fired brass was very hard to extract from chamber, bolt had to be taped rearward to pull out brass from chamber.

The issue was the new barrel had been chambered with a match reamer, which was slightly tighter in the webbing/ case head area. I used brass that had been fired in the old barrel, it chambered fine but super hard to extract after firing in the new chamber.

The smith told me to use brand new brass, and sure enough when i did the problem was fixed.

The area of the case back by the case head that doesn't get sized by the FL die was the issue.

@GWH I dont think that this is the issue here as hes said that it happens with new factory rounds.
But ya never know eh.
My money is on it being a head space issue as stated above. But sent back to the builder and it should be all good.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by GWH

Ive struck a very similar issue where fired brass was very hard to extract from chamber, bolt had to be taped rearward to pull out brass from chamber.

The issue was the new barrel had been chambered with a match reamer, which was slightly tighter in the webbing/ case head area. I used brass that had been fired in the old barrel, it chambered fine but super hard to extract after firing in the new chamber.

The smith told me to use brand new brass, and sure enough when i did the problem was fixed.

The area of the case back by the case head that doesn't get sized by the FL die was the issue.

---

Small base die should fix that?

Whatever the problem is good luck getting it sorted. I hope Hardy has matured a bit from the days where he was the self proclaimed gods gift to gunsmithing and the customer was always wrong.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

so if you chamber a round and dont fire it..will it eject easily???

---

No, I have to hammer the bolt open, (not using an actual hammer) but is very stiff.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by alphaDelta

No, I have to hammer the bolt open, (not using an actual hammer) but is very stiff.

---

Ah righ, that sounds bad :o

Keep us updated on the fix.

A wee video showing the problem may help diagnosis.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by caberslash

Small base die should fix that?

---

I suggested that to the smith, he said it wouldn't work. But brand new brass did

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by alphaDelta

No, I have to hammer the bolt open, (not using an actual hammer) but is very stiff.

---

So it seems the smith never test fired it then

The usual cause of such problems is a rough chamber, normally caused by trying to take too large cuts. The reamer must be withdrawn , cleaned and lubed, many times, especially when getting near the finished size. Easy to fix by setting the barrel back one turn and re-cutting the chamber correctly. Haste makes waste!

I have an old bsa 270 that does that. Has an issue with the case neck once fired. Any issues with your ejected brass ?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by alphaDelta

No, I have to hammer the bolt open, (not using an actual hammer) but is very stiff.

---

so therefore it has NOTHING AT ALL to do with headspace increasing size of case...cause the case hasnt increased in size YET..... it could be timing of bolt lugs into recesses??? or any number of other things any gunsmith worth his weight in goat turds should be able to sort.

please try one wee thing,loosen front action screw 1 turn and try again...my old model 70 would poke end of action screw into one lug of bolt till I filed it fly shit shorter...the screw not the lug....

Congratulations on the new gun. I support the suggestion to send the gun back to Dan and the team, please send your dies, cases and load data along too.

If possible size some five cases, mark them clearly and send along too.

Give the rifle builder the opportunity to sort any issues out first. Most smiths will appreciate it.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by GWH

So it seems the smith never test fired it then

---

I assume not. this is the first time I have got a barrel ect done, so don’t really know what to expect.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by gundoc

The usual cause of such problems is a rough chamber, normally caused by trying to take too large cuts. The reamer must be withdrawn , cleaned and lubed, many times, especially when getting near the finished size. Easy to fix by setting the barrel back one turn and re-cutting the chamber correctly. Haste makes waste!

---

Ok cheers, Hopefully it’s a straight forward fix to sort. I have emailed them and plan to drop off at Hardy’s end of the week

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

so therefore it has NOTHING AT ALL to do with headspace increasing size of case...cause the case hasnt increased in size YET..... it could be timing of bolt lugs into recesses??? or any number of other things any gunsmith worth his weight in goat turds should be able to sort.

please try one wee thing,loosen front action screw 1 turn and try again...my old model 70 would poke end of action screw into one lug of bolt till I filed it fly shit shorter...the screw not the lug....

---

Ok cheers, I’ll call them when they come back to work hopefully on Tuesday and see what they want to do. I think ideally they take it back and have a good loom over it all. but I’ll have a look at the screw you say tho.
Thanks for taking the time to help

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by small_caliber

What you describe is a problem extracting the fired round from the chamber.

---

AND also a problem extracting unfired rounds (post #17 above).

Is the bolt hard or stiff to close when chambering a round? I would think if a round is hard to extract, it would also need some force to chamber it.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Cigar

AND also a problem extracting unfired rounds (post #17 above).

Is the bolt hard or stiff to close when chambering a round? I would think if a round is hard to extract, it would also need some force to chamber it.

---

No issues at all chambering the round. bolt closes smoothly. fire round, then hard to open bolt.
I found a leather stock whip in my Ute, so used the handle(wooden handle with leather plats) to hammer the bolt open.

ok so I WILL ask question AGAIN..... if you close bolt on a round AND DONT FIRE IT...does it eject with ease!!!!!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

ok so I WILL ask question AGAIN..... if you close bolt on a round AND DONT FIRE IT...does it eject with ease!!!!!

---

I’ll let you know WHEN I get a chance,
Thanks

Should be tomorrow when I can try.
Thanks

alphaDelta, answering a question you asked earlier. What can you expect after having a barrel replaced.

The short answer: you can expect whatever you specified/negotiated before the build started. If you dont know what to specify - ask the gunsmith what you can expect.




Being a gunsmith myself - this is the minimum my customers can expect:

The components as spesified/suplied to be fitted/installed to a safe standard.
A gun that will safely fire either production or custom ammo - depending on what was specified.
Having the gun test fired before receiving it.
My name and a serial number engraved clearly on the new barrel.
After sales service - with a smile.

Not mimimum anymore: but they can also expect whatever was negotiated&priced before the build starts.(I contact each customer before I start and confirm what is expected/wanted.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by alphaDelta

I found a leather stock whip in my Ute, so used the handle(wooden handle with leather plats) to hammer the bolt open.

---

Would not offer this info up when presenting said rifle back to the gunsmith, might be used as a 'get out of jail' card against you...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by caberslash

Would not offer this info up when presenting said rifle back to the gunsmith, might be used as a 'get out of jail' card against you...

---

dought that cant drive anywhere with a bolt in a rifle, needs are a must and all that

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Jaco Goosen

alphaDelta, answering a question you asked earlier. What can you expect after having a barrel replaced.

The short answer: you can expect whatever you specified/negotiated before the build started. If you dont know what to specify - ask the gunsmith what you can expect.




Being a gunsmith myself - this is the minimum my customers can expect:

The components as spesified/suplied to be fitted/installed to a safe standard.
A gun that will safely fire either production or custom ammo - depending on what was specified.
Having the gun test fired before receiving it.
My name and a serial number engraved clearly on the new barrel.
After sales service - with a smile.

Not mimimum anymore: but they can also expect whatever was negotiated&priced before the build starts.(I contact each customer before I start and confirm what is expected/wanted.

---

Thanks for the help and information.
the long weekend hasn’t helped in regrading to anyone getting answers.
I’m trying to give anyone and everyone benefit of the doubt. no blame ect, I’m sure it’s a simple solution. inconvenient but that’s all so far.
no bad feeling here… yet
Cheers

fingers crossed I’ll manage to talk to gunsmith or at least an email response today, I’ll keep you all updated with our progress.
thanks again for everyone’s help and input
Cheers